Tailored and True

Caitlin’s Skincare Treasure Trove

You might ask why a skincare manifesto is a necessary part of this blog. It’s not. But it just so happens that I’m a fanatic who has done a TON of research, and skincare has come up a lot in conversation recently. Usually something along the lines of “Sigh… I really need to figure that out.” To which I reply, “I have a seven page document outlining everything I think is important that makes me seem almost as crazy as I actually am.” It’s a good conversation.

For context, right around my 24th birthday I was super stressed at work, struggling with some health issues (which ultimately were resolved when I regretfully divorced from gluten – sad, sad day), and my face freaked out on me. This was no teenage pimple drama; this was an adult acne fiasco. So I did what any sane person would do, and delved deep into the scientific evidence behind the skin care industry. I learned about pH balances, the relative efficacy of various active ingredients, and niche products with cult followings from around the world. I learned how to properly wash my face and enthusiastically set about the sacrilegious practice of smearing oil all over my face every night as a part of my cleansing routine, mixing French products with Korean routines to hit the best of both worlds.

Good news. Since then, my skin has considerably cleared up. And while it’s not as blank and pore-less as an artist’s canvas, day to day it looks pretty good. And it’s much better than it would otherwise be.

This document is the summary of the many hours of research, product testing, and iteration I’ve conducted over the past few years. I hope it’s helpful to you wherever you are in your skincare journey! If you have any questions, feedback, etc., shoot a note my way!

 

Part I: The basics

I’ll start by saying I believe a lot of good skin comes from behavioral actions outside of what you put on your face. What you eat and drink, how stressed you are, how much you workout/sweat, your climate, etc., all have a huge impact on your skin. Be kind to yourself if change is slow and think a little bit about what else is going on in your life that could be impacting your skin.

I also want to say that when it comes to skincare, my personal philosophy is that if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it. If you have a few favorite products that you don’t want to give up, then great! Don’t give them up. Pick up whatever of my recommendations work for you and ignore the rest. I won’t take it personally.

There are a few behavioral changes I do recommend that can really help if you aren’t happy with where your skin is now:

  • When you talk on the phone, avoid touching your phone to your face. Use headphones or angle your phone away from your cheeks. That thing is DIRTY and can transfer lots of bacteria, etc., to your poor face.
  • Change out your pillowcases often. Go out and get like 4 sets. Every few days (I do it on days I wash my hair so roughly every other or every third) change out your pillowcase.
  • Change out your washcloths and hand towels on the regular. I use a new washcloth every time I wash me face (it’s not that extreme I just own like 10) and change out my hand towels that I dry my face on along the same timeline as my pillowcases.
  • NEVER sleep in your makeup from the day/night out. I don’t care that it’s annoying to wash off (more on that shortly) – do it. You can thank me in 20 years when your skin still looks great.
  • Drop the physical exfoliators. For most people, clarisonics and scrubs with beads, etc., are too strong. If you want to keep using them, try to decrease frequency and supplement with acidic exfoliators (more on that in the Evening Routine section). Never combine a physical and chemical exfoliator in the same session.

 

Part II: The three types of skincare

I believe that there are three main categories that every skincare product falls into: cleansing, treating, and protecting, and they all build on one another (and go in order from most important to least important with the exception of sunscreen which is CLUTCH for anti-aging and also not getting skin cancer). Both morning and night I recommend all three steps, although I personally use different products for each (which I’ll spell out later).

Cleansing

I cannot stress enough how important cleansing is. If you do nothing else to change your skincare routine, PLEASE consider leveling up your cleansing routine. It’s so important to make sure all the dirt, grime, sweat, bacteria, etc. that accumulates throughout the day and night is removed from the skin before you put any products on. They won’t do anything for you if applied over a layer of grime.

In the morning, I recommend a single cleanse. Just what it sounds like – wake up and wash your face. I personally avoid foaming cleansers like the plague, although I know that’s not super popular (again – if you like your cleanser, feel free to stick with it). There’s some pretty conclusive science behind why foaming cleansers might not be helping you. Your skin is made up of many layers – your body’s natural protection – called the moisture barrier, and it requires being at a specific pH (around 4.7 which is on the acidic side of the scale) to work properly at blocking bacteria and other intruders from causing breakouts, premature aging, etc. Foaming cleansers (unless specifically low pH) often disrupt your moisture barrier because they include surfactants (i.e. soap) which has a basic pH (> 7.0). That tight and/or tingling feeling you get after washing your face with your foaming cleanser doesn’t mean that you skin is squeaky clean. It means its unhappy.

Ok, this is my number one most important skin care recommendation. In the evening, do a double cleanse. “What’s a double cleanse?” you ask. It means washing twice in a row, but with different cleansers. A lot of our makeup and sunscreens (especially anything labeled ‘waterproof’), as well as the oil our faces produce naturally, are oil-based. Which means that a water-based cleanser isn’t actually super effective at washing away oil on our skin (#science). The best way to do that is to use an oil-based cleanser. I know it sounds sacrilegious to go spreading oil on your skin, but I promise you, it’s the best thing you can do for it. So, for your nighttime routine, start with dry skin and apply an oil-based cleanser directly to your skin. Gently massage your face for as long as you can (>30 seconds if possible) being sure not to pull at your skin (gentle, woman!), and rinse off. I like to use a wet washcloth to gently wipe away the oil/dirt/makeup/sunscreen grime and then rinse off the rest with water. As soon as you’re done, apply your water-based cleanser to your wet face and wash normally. Pat dry (don’t wipe).

Treating

Once your face is properly clean (good work, soldier), then you can apply your fancy skincare products. This includes toners, essences, serums, ampoules, masks, eye creams, etc. My general rule here is to layer up from most watery to least watery. Which in general (there are always labeling exceptions so make your own call here) means toners first, then essences, then serums and ampoules (which are basically the same thing).

Protecting

This is where your moisturizers and sleeping masks/packs (again, same thing) come in. And your SUNSCREEN. This step is critical for sealing in all the great treatment you just did and protecting your skin from the elements.

I personally care the least about my moisturizer as compared to all the other products in my routine. I know this sounds crazy, but if you’re using the right products in your treatment step, your skin shouldn’t be dry by the time you get around to moisturizing.

Sunscreen, on the other hand, I am SUPER picky about. First, it’s super important to get “broad spectrum” protection (both UVA and UVB rays). UVB rays are what causes burns, while UVA rays tan your skin and cause aging. Super important fact – SPF or “sun protection factor” only measures protection against UVB rays. PA is a rating system that shows the level of protection again UVA rays. So higher SPF and more ‘+’ signs next to PA means better protection across both types of rays. Second, I don’t want it to feel or smell like sunscreen, or else I’m not going to bother wearing it every day. I highly encourage you find an option that you like (I have a few suggestions below) so that you incorporate this step into your every day skincare routine and put it on before you walk out the door or apply makeup.

 

Part III: The routine

Ok, and now the part we’ve all be waiting for! The routine and the products I recommend. A quick note – some of the places I purchase from have affiliate programs, and some of the links below are from those programs, so if you buy any of the products I might get a small commission on the sale (as is true for most links on this blog!). It doesn’t impact the retail price at all, they just share a small part of the profit with me for referring you as a customer. If you have any problems with that feel free to reset your cookies and then purchase or google the products without clicking on the links below. Also feel free to reach out and ask me any questions about these programs!

Also, just to be clear, I’m giving you these product recommendations and routines, but this is NOT me telling you to go out and buy one of everything here. Read through these routines and see what resonates. If I might recommend, start by incorporating an oil cleanser and a sunscreen and see how that goes for you. Then get a serum or essence or two that resonate with you and your price point. Try to add one new product at a time and gauge how your skin reacts so you can see if it’s effective for you. Everybody’s skin is different so what works for me might not work for you. Take the changes slowly and build up to a routine you can commit to.

As a quick note, I periodically update with my latest and greatest favs. The last time I updated this document was: 9/15/2018

 

Morning Routine

  • Cleanse.
    • My favorite cleanser of all time is from Biologique Recherche, a super niche French brand that I’m obsessed with. They only distribute through certain websites, so you have to create an account to both see prices and buy. So annoying. This one is $40 for 8.5 ounces. It’s creamy in consistency, very gentle, and doesn’t smell like anything. If you’re looking for something a bit more mainstream, I really like the Pure Skin Face Cleanser by First Aid Beauty ($20 for 5oz). You can also get it at Sephora, but the other place I linked has sales WAY more frequently #protip.
    • I also recently caved and bought the Clarifying Cleanser from Tata Harper ($68 for 125mL), and while I don’t think there’s any reason ever to need to spend that much on face wash, I have to admit its amazing. It’s a “dry cleanser” so I take a pump and massage it into my face dry, and it has a beautiful scent that has quickly become a part of my wake-up routine. Oops.
  • Toner.
    • This step is optional and doesn’t have to be done every day, but I personally use a toner every morning. My current fav for morning toners is from Be The Skin ($25 for 150mL). It’s nice and light and doesn’t irritate. I also love this one from Aromatica ($23 for 130mL), especially on days when I’m battling a breakout. Toners help lower the pH on your skin, so if you keep using a foaming cleanser, this step becomes more important. If you’re really into acids (ahemmmm, like me), and they don’t make your face really red you can sub out these gentler options for a little more oomph. Love the Tarte Knockout Tingling Treatment ($39 for 150mL).
  • Eye cream.
    • Ok there have been some BIG upgrades in my eye cream game. My two current favorites are the C-Tango Multivitamin Eye Cream by Drunk Elephant ($64 for 15mL) and the Eye Balm by Skincando ($15 for .125oz). They’re both definitely pricier than the eye serum from the Ordinary ($6.70 for 30mL) that I was using before I found them, but that’s because I never found an option that was worth pouring money into before these bad boys that entered my life a basically the same time. Both the new options are heavier/creamier but still soak right in and sit well under makeup. They’re so, so good. To apply, I put one drop/quarter pump/rice sized amount on my ring finger, swirl it around with the other ring finger, and apply gently from inner eye to outer eye (never in the other direction) as this helps drain puffiness from under eyes. Try not to stretch or pull at this super sensitive skin.
  • Essence/Serum.
    • I really love this vitamin C serum from Klairs ($23 for 35 mL). Vitamin C serums are great for evening skin tone (fading acne scars or brown spots) and is good for anti-aging protection. If you’re looking for a budget option, I recommend this one from The Ordinary ($12.90 for 30mL). I don’t like the consistency as much, and feels a bit more like a “brute force” option, but it’s still really effective.
    • I’m also all about hyaluronic acid these days. It’s super good for anti-aging and hydrating, and all around making your skin happier. Recommend the Super Bounce serum by Glossier ($28 for 15mL), or the Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 from the Ordinary ($6.80 for 30mL).
    • I like to layer on moisturizing serums during the day. I’ve been using this snail mucin serum from CosRX ($19 for 100mL) every day for a few years now and highly recommend (don’t freak out – it’s not gross at all I promise. Collected in a lab, super clean, completely scentless, and really amazing for moisturizing and healing).
    • Other serums I swap in and out: this Missha essence ($49 for 150mL) that is great for repairing and moisturizing damaged skin, this galactomyces serum from CosRX ($20 for 100mL) that’s great for hydrating and brightening skin, and this anti-aging serum from The Ordinary ($14.80 for 30mL).
  • Moisturize.
    • I’ve been using this moisturizer from Aromatica ($45 for 100mL) for over three years now and I really like it. I’ve also swapped in this gel ($18 for 300mL) in summer months to avoid anything heavy or greasy, and definitely recommend.
  • Sunscreen.
    • My ALL TIME FAVORITE is from Missha ($22 for 70mL). It goes on super smooth, doesn’t smell or feel like sunscreen, and soaks in really quickly. Highly, highly recommend. Seriously, this stuff is game changing. RUN, DON’T WALK.

Evening Routine

  • Double cleanse.
    • I have two favorite oil cleansers. The first is a balm from Clinique called ‘take the day off’ that is SUPER effective and happily unscented ($29.50 for 125mL). Stick your finger in and grab a pea sized amount and go to town. The other is a liquid oil from Klairs ($23 for 150 mL). Use 1-2 pumps per wash. Quick note – if you’re wearing a lot of eye makeup you might need more of either product. Start there as that stuff is hard to get off and be really gentle with your massage. Once that’s good and clear, move on to the rest of your face as described in the Cleansing section above.
    • Cleanse with your water-based cleanser. I use the same Biologique Recherche cleanser as mentioned above.
  • Toner.
    • My very favorite toner in the world is from Biologique Recherche called Lotion P50 ($101 for 8.5oz – they do have smaller sizes if you want to try it out and not drop so much to start) and it has a legit cult following. That includes me. This shit is AMAZING. It completely restored hydration to my skin, fades scarring or other spots, and reduces pore size. Disclaimer – it smells really bad. But its like crack for your face. I like to apply it with these cotton pads from Intrinsics ($9.95 for 200) because the pads don’t absorb much product and waste it. A few notes about Lotion P50:
      • There are two “lines” of Lotion P50 – the Original 1970 line and the new formulation. The 1970 formula is controversial because it contains phenol, which is banned in the EU from personal care products but still allowed in the US. You can read more about it here and here. I personally have a bottle of 1970 and a bottle of new formula that sit next to each other in my cabinet and I probably use them in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. I think of the 1970 version as the good shit.
      • Each of the lines come in three strengths – regular, P50V (moderate), and P50W (sensitive). P50W is highly recommended if you’re over 50 or if you haven’t used acid exfoliators before.
      • It’s a pretty strong chemical exfoliator. If you don’t normally use acids on your face I highly recommend starting with P50W and moving your way up the scale to P50V before using regular. Also, start with just a few times a week and work up from there. You definitely don’t ever need to use it every day.
      • This product makes my skin red and it sometimes is a little “burn-y.” The redness should fade within 15 minutes. If it doesn’t or if it really stings, your skin isn’t ready for that amount of acid yet. Try one of the other products I recommend below and work up to Lotion P50.
      • DO NOT use Lotion P50 on the same day as you use a physical exfoliator (i.e. a clarisonic or a scrub). It’s too much!
      • It really, really smells. Sorry. Maybe wait until your alone for the night or at least done getting cozy with someone else before you put it on. Again, sorry.
      • Andddd I also just got hooked on a “side line” of Lotion P50 – PIGM 400 ($116 for 8.5oz), which is particularly designed to address pigmentation and acne scarring. It’s amazing.
    • If you aren’t ready to shell out for Lotion P50 (very reasonable of you), I’ve also used and loved the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Glow Pads ($38 for 20 pads), First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30 for 60 pads), Tarte Knockout Tingling Treatment ($39 for 150mL), or Pixi Glow Tonic ($15 for 3.4oz) which is available just about everywhere. They’re all excellent and great alternatives to P50. Quick note on buying skincare on Amazon – I generally advise against it because there are so many fake products out there and Amazon doesn’t regulate them. If you do buy from Amazon, make sure the seller of the product is the actual maker of the product (i.e. Pixi Glow Tonic sold by Pixi Beauty).
  • Essence.
    • I like to apply an essence over my toners. If you struggle to keep your skin hydrated but non-greasy, adding an essence can be really helpful. My very favorite essence ever just got discontinued (I’m heart-broken!! Here’s the link in case they ever bring it back (Four Tea Serum – $75 for 1oz). I also love the Asian Powerhouse Serum by Sabbatical Beauty ($50 for 1oz, a great all around hydrator and good base for other product) and the Tea Tree and Volcanic Ash Serum from Sabbatical Beauty ($60 for 1oz and particularly good if you’re battling a breakout). I also use the Missha essence ($49 for 150mL) I talked about above. It’s also worth mentioning that it’s a great dupe for the popular SKII Facial Treatment Essence ($179 for 160mL).
  • Eye Cream.
  • Mask.
    • I probably use a mask on average once a week – more would be better – and have a few to recommend. There are two types of masks I love. The first are wash-off masks, the second are sheet masks.
      • Wash off masks. My favorite for acne/spot treatment is the Masque Vivant from Biologique Recherche ($70 for 3.4oz). Warning, as with other BR products, it smells foul. So, so effective though. I also love their Masque VIP O2 ($146 for 3.4oz). When using these masks I put Vivant on spots, VIP O2 around my eyes and lips, and then mix the two with a pinch of baking soda to apply on the rest of my face. It’s a really cute look. It smells nice too. Not. I wait ~20 min and wash off. I wait to apply my eye cream until after washing this mask off, but I don’t restart my routine after washing – I just apply serums from here.
      • Sheet masks. My favorite brand is Leaders. My favorite acne mask is here ($4 each) and my favorite moisturizing mask is here ($4 each). I also highly recommend the whole MANEFIT line (~$2 each). When you’re done, take off but don’t wash off! Apply any other serums you want (that are more viscous) and then your moisturizer on top. Also – don’t throw out the leftover serum in the packet! Use for your hands, neck, and chest or save to use as a serum directly the next day.
  • Serum(s).
    • If I were to limit myself to one serum, it would probably by the Marine Serum by Sabbatical Beauty ($50 for 1oz). I’ve been using it for years and I can’t say enough good about it. It protects collagen and elastin in your skin – good for avoiding sagging skin – and it’s hydrating, wound healing, and good for sensitive skin.
    • Another all-around amazing serum is Moar Honey II from Sabbatical Beauty ($60 for 1oz). It does everything Marine does plus is decent for acne, but it’s a lot stickier and doesn’t fade in as nicely. I use them both and layer this one in on days I’m battling breakouts.
    • For a moisturizing serum that packs a punch I recommend Hydra from Sabbatical Beauty ($50 for 1oz). It’s a little heavy, so really good in the winter or in dry climates and I’d only recommend wearing at night. It’s really great for sensitive skin. For a cheaper/lighter option, I really like the hyaluronic acid serum by Glossier ($28 for 15mL). Hyaluronic acid is super moisturizing and a good hydrator. The texture is really good and the serum is really effective. You can swap in the hyaluronic acid serum from The Ordinary ($6.80 for 30mL) for a more cost-effective solution, but the consistency, smell, soak-in, etc. are all better in the Glossier product.
    • The Radiance Serum from Sabbatical Beauty ($75 for 1oz) is amazing for fading age spots, sun spots, and scarring, as well as reducing the appearance of pores. It’s also a bit sticky in consistency.
  • Retinols/Beauty Oils.
    • After my serums a few nights a week I like to add either a retinol product or an oil. Never combine multiple retinol products in the same night and never wear them during the day because they greatly increase skin sensitivity to sun. Always wear sunscreen the day after you use a retinol product (which you’re doing anyway because you wear sunscreen everyday now, right?). If you’re embarking down the P50 route, I recommend using these on off days of P50, at least at the start, to avoid irritation.
    • My favorite retinol is Luna Sleeping Night Oil by Sunday Riley ($105 for 30mL). It’s a beautiful formulation and the oil is super light and effective.
    • I also love the Sleeping Beauty Oil from Sabbatical Beauty ($200 for 1oz). They occasionally run sales on the product – I think I got mine for $125 and if they do it is SO worth it. It’s straight up amazing. Or get the sample size to test it out. Another favorite is the Étoile with Retinol Treatment Oil by Jordan Samuel ($43 for 30mL). For a more affordable option, I highly recommend the Granactive Retinoid 2% from The Ordinary ($9.60 for 30mL). If you use that for a while without irritation, you can also check out the Granactive Retinoid 5% ($13.90 for 30mL). These two seriously punch above their weight, er, cost.
    • I also love the UFO oil by Sunday Riley ($80 for 130mL) on days when I have a bad breakout and I will follow it up with Good Genes by Sunday Riley ($158 for 50mL) for extra acne combat power. Sephora sells travel sizes of all the Sunday Riley products if you don’t want to pay for a full thing without testing it. Also – if you walk into Sephora in person you can request samples to take home with you fo FREE.
  • Moisturize.
    • My favorite night moisturizer is the Sake & Fermented Rice Sleeping Pack by Sabbatical Beauty ($60 for 2oz). The smell is AMAZING and it’s super protective and hydrating. If you wear an oil to bed you can skip something this heavy and use your normal moisturizer but sometimes I combine them anyway if I’m feeling fancy. Or dry.
    • I recently found the Belif True Cream Moisturizing Bomb ($38 for 50mL) and I love it. It’s a super light texture with a really clean scent. Very moisturizing and lovely.
    • I also really like the Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Sleeping Cream from First Aid Beauty ($38 for 50mL). They have a travel size option that’s perfect for when I’m on the go.
    • If I’m really struggling with a breakout, this Midnight Blue Calming Cream from Klairs ($24.50 for 30mL) is a really great option.

Discount Links:

  • Use this link to get 20% off your first order at Soko Glam
  • Use this link for $10 off your first order at Peach and Lily

Part IV: Other resources

If you have ANY questions at all please don’t hesitate to reach out. Or if you made it through that whole thing and want a recommendation for something pretty specific, I probably have at least an idea of where to send you but I didn’t bother listing all the niche products I own, so happy to answer those questions too.

My favorite online resources are Caroline Hirons – in my humble opinion the goddess of all things skincare and the woman who prompted my insane infatuation with skincare products. Check out her YouTube channel for tutorials, reviews, etc. as well. I also love the blogs Skin & Tonics and Into the Gloss for product and brand reviews.

Thanks for reading! Did I miss anything? Or do you have feedback on any of my product recommendations? Please let me know!

 

Best of luck in your skin endeavors,

Caitlin

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